While we were at the mausoleum, I had gotten an email from the 2 night Halong Bay boat tour we were booked into for the next day. I replied that I had booked a private driver and we'd arrive in time for the scheduled 12:30 departure. My reason for the private car is to avoid getting up early to get on a bus that goes to 8 more hotels and drops you off in time for 30 people to all check in. I prefer to just get picked up and get to the destination after the lineup dies down. By the time we got back to the hotel at 7pm, they'd sent another email informing us that our boat itinerary was extended and we needed to arrive at 11:45am. So while UG slept (he passed out as soon as we got back), I had to call the Hanoi Transfer Service and have our pickup rescheduled for the second time in 2 days. I had another night of broken sleep, worried about our early departure time.
The car picked us up at the new time and got us to the boat at 11:40. We checked in, and they told us to take a seat as we wouldn't be leaving until 12:30. I was extremely grumpy at the loss of my extra 45 minutes of sleep. Then, instead of the pier in the promotional videos, we had to get into a little shuttle boat to get out to the big boat. When the guide pointed out a little old cruise boat and joked that it was ours, I wasn't sure he was kidding at this point.
On the big boat, it was as gorgeous as described. Although our private balcony was so small that you couldn't open the door all the way.
At about 1:30, we were served a lunch buffet that was amazing. After lunch, we arrived at a floating "fishing village" that we could "kayak" through. I use quotes here because I'm fairly certain the fishing village was a mock up for tourists, and the kayaks were the flat kind that you only ever see at resorts. I'm okay with the fake fishing village, though. If I lived in an isolated village of 50 or so people, I wouldn't want thousands of tourists walking through to gawk every day. The kayak was painfully uncomfortable. And I was so bad at paddling that UG demanded I just stay still rather than make it harder on him. I still couldn't wait to get back to the little shuttle boat. (Photos are all on the waterproof camera, so they'll have to wait until we get home.)
On the other side of where we got onto the kayaks, the shuttle boat took us to a pearl farm, where they show the tourists different types of pearls, and how they seed them. There was, of course, a pearl gift shop, with prices ranging from $150 for earrings, to $30k for a string of fat, black pearls. Unfortunately, we hadn't brought enough cash. Darn.
Back on the big boat, we got changed into dry clothes. "Kayaking" got our shorts and shirts wet. Then it was happy hour at the top deck bar, as well as a spring roll cooking demonstration. UG got a massage. Then dinner was served. Pumpkin soup, shrimp and papaya salad, prawns and mussels in a creamy sauce, sea bass, and fruit for dessert.
From announcements that were made during dinner, we figured out that this wasn't a 2 night/3day cruise. We were on it for 2 nights, but the boat returns to the dock every day to exchange passengers. When I booked, I had seen the option for 1 night, but I assumed that was a different day or different boat. While the boat was going back to the dock to get more passengers, we'd be dropped on a beach for 6 hours, according to the guide, but he was vague about the actual itinerary. I was so exhausted, I almost couldn't stay awake through dinner. We got back to the room at 9pm and I passed right out. We missed the scheduled squid fishing event, but it wasn't squid season anyway, so we'd likely not catch anything.
The next morning, after my first glorious 8 hour sleep since leaving home, I woke up around sunrise and watched the rock formations gradually come into focus. I put on a ship supplied bathrobe and went to see if there was better photo opportunities from another corner of the boat. It was too cloudy for a sun rise, so instead I chatted with some other guests while wearing the loaner bathrobe and my hair standing on end. I went back to bed while they went to tai chi class.
We were served breakfast while the departing passengers went to see a cave on one of the islands. When they got back, we were shuttled to a smaller "day boat", where we met up with passengers from 2 other boats. Our boat then headed back to the dock. We were told to relax for an hour and enjoy the scenery while we traveled to our beach. But this boat had 36 people on board. And the seating amounted to 10 loungers, 4 chairs, and banquet seating for 36 for lunch. Not enough room for everyone to relax. A bitter disappointment compared to the large boat we booked on. When we got close to the beach, we were given the option of "kayaking" to the beach, or a little motor boat. You couldn't pay me to get back on another of those "kayaks" so we opted for the boat. We were asked to line up and put on poorly fitting life jackets to get on the boat. And then we waited while the kayakers were kitted up, and then the boat only held 8 people and had to make 2 trips. Ya know, I could have just stayed on the lounger I scored. This had more of a feel of adult daycare than luxury relaxation. We spent 3 hours on this little beach, with no shade. When our purgatory was up, the day guide rounded us all up and told us to get ready. One poor guy was kicked (gently) awake from his nap, only to have to wait another 15 minutes for the second boat pickup.
After 3 hours without a toilet, 36 people had to line up for the 2 bathrooms on board. 1 couple took over both toilets and used the waist high mop hose to shower and change. I almost jumped off the boat at this point to pee rather than pee my pants waiting any longer.
Lunch was served on the small boat in the banquet seating. We were seated with a German couple from one of the other boats. And lunch was served family style. I found this really awkward when siting with strangers who you can't even have a conversation with. The food was okay, but not as good as on the big boat. Although it did include a braised pork rib that we happily got seconds of. After another hour of relaxation, (we scored loungers!) we were returned to the spot of the fishing village where the new arrivals were getting introduced to the "kayaks". We were given time to ourselves on the big boat.
The rest of the evening was a repeat of the night before, we were even anchored in the same spot. The menu was different, and I didn't love it as much. My cream sauce was replaced with a "set your mouth on fire" spicy sauce. There was more braised pork ribs. And although I probably could have stayed awake for squid fishing this time, I went to bed rather than try to catch an off-season squid.
In the morning, we had a continental breakfast, and then went to the caves. We were told it was 400 steps up, but it was more like 80. I guess this makes it seem easier and keeps the tourists from complaining. The view from the cave was spectacular. Inside, it was a steam bath. So hot and humid, you sweat through your shirt just standing still. And very crowded, as there were at least a dozen other boats docked there at the same time.
We got back to the boat and had about an hour to shower and pack up our stuff. Then we had a brunch served while they colllected our bags in preparation for unloading. We cruised for an hour or so back to the dock to end our trip.
When we got back on land an reunited with our luggage, it was soaking wet. Several other bags were, too. I suspect they tossed them all off the side of the little boat to someone standing in the water, who then passed them up to shore. Only 1 shirt of mine is wet but all of UG's underwear, and several of his shirts got wet.
Another driver was waiting to drive us the 4 hours to our next destination, Ninh Binh.
The car picked us up at the new time and got us to the boat at 11:40. We checked in, and they told us to take a seat as we wouldn't be leaving until 12:30. I was extremely grumpy at the loss of my extra 45 minutes of sleep. Then, instead of the pier in the promotional videos, we had to get into a little shuttle boat to get out to the big boat. When the guide pointed out a little old cruise boat and joked that it was ours, I wasn't sure he was kidding at this point.
On the big boat, it was as gorgeous as described. Although our private balcony was so small that you couldn't open the door all the way.
At about 1:30, we were served a lunch buffet that was amazing. After lunch, we arrived at a floating "fishing village" that we could "kayak" through. I use quotes here because I'm fairly certain the fishing village was a mock up for tourists, and the kayaks were the flat kind that you only ever see at resorts. I'm okay with the fake fishing village, though. If I lived in an isolated village of 50 or so people, I wouldn't want thousands of tourists walking through to gawk every day. The kayak was painfully uncomfortable. And I was so bad at paddling that UG demanded I just stay still rather than make it harder on him. I still couldn't wait to get back to the little shuttle boat. (Photos are all on the waterproof camera, so they'll have to wait until we get home.)
On the other side of where we got onto the kayaks, the shuttle boat took us to a pearl farm, where they show the tourists different types of pearls, and how they seed them. There was, of course, a pearl gift shop, with prices ranging from $150 for earrings, to $30k for a string of fat, black pearls. Unfortunately, we hadn't brought enough cash. Darn.
Back on the big boat, we got changed into dry clothes. "Kayaking" got our shorts and shirts wet. Then it was happy hour at the top deck bar, as well as a spring roll cooking demonstration. UG got a massage. Then dinner was served. Pumpkin soup, shrimp and papaya salad, prawns and mussels in a creamy sauce, sea bass, and fruit for dessert.
From announcements that were made during dinner, we figured out that this wasn't a 2 night/3day cruise. We were on it for 2 nights, but the boat returns to the dock every day to exchange passengers. When I booked, I had seen the option for 1 night, but I assumed that was a different day or different boat. While the boat was going back to the dock to get more passengers, we'd be dropped on a beach for 6 hours, according to the guide, but he was vague about the actual itinerary. I was so exhausted, I almost couldn't stay awake through dinner. We got back to the room at 9pm and I passed right out. We missed the scheduled squid fishing event, but it wasn't squid season anyway, so we'd likely not catch anything.
The next morning, after my first glorious 8 hour sleep since leaving home, I woke up around sunrise and watched the rock formations gradually come into focus. I put on a ship supplied bathrobe and went to see if there was better photo opportunities from another corner of the boat. It was too cloudy for a sun rise, so instead I chatted with some other guests while wearing the loaner bathrobe and my hair standing on end. I went back to bed while they went to tai chi class.
We were served breakfast while the departing passengers went to see a cave on one of the islands. When they got back, we were shuttled to a smaller "day boat", where we met up with passengers from 2 other boats. Our boat then headed back to the dock. We were told to relax for an hour and enjoy the scenery while we traveled to our beach. But this boat had 36 people on board. And the seating amounted to 10 loungers, 4 chairs, and banquet seating for 36 for lunch. Not enough room for everyone to relax. A bitter disappointment compared to the large boat we booked on. When we got close to the beach, we were given the option of "kayaking" to the beach, or a little motor boat. You couldn't pay me to get back on another of those "kayaks" so we opted for the boat. We were asked to line up and put on poorly fitting life jackets to get on the boat. And then we waited while the kayakers were kitted up, and then the boat only held 8 people and had to make 2 trips. Ya know, I could have just stayed on the lounger I scored. This had more of a feel of adult daycare than luxury relaxation. We spent 3 hours on this little beach, with no shade. When our purgatory was up, the day guide rounded us all up and told us to get ready. One poor guy was kicked (gently) awake from his nap, only to have to wait another 15 minutes for the second boat pickup.
After 3 hours without a toilet, 36 people had to line up for the 2 bathrooms on board. 1 couple took over both toilets and used the waist high mop hose to shower and change. I almost jumped off the boat at this point to pee rather than pee my pants waiting any longer.
Lunch was served on the small boat in the banquet seating. We were seated with a German couple from one of the other boats. And lunch was served family style. I found this really awkward when siting with strangers who you can't even have a conversation with. The food was okay, but not as good as on the big boat. Although it did include a braised pork rib that we happily got seconds of. After another hour of relaxation, (we scored loungers!) we were returned to the spot of the fishing village where the new arrivals were getting introduced to the "kayaks". We were given time to ourselves on the big boat.
 |
| THIS is what I signed up for! |
In the morning, we had a continental breakfast, and then went to the caves. We were told it was 400 steps up, but it was more like 80. I guess this makes it seem easier and keeps the tourists from complaining. The view from the cave was spectacular. Inside, it was a steam bath. So hot and humid, you sweat through your shirt just standing still. And very crowded, as there were at least a dozen other boats docked there at the same time.
We got back to the boat and had about an hour to shower and pack up our stuff. Then we had a brunch served while they colllected our bags in preparation for unloading. We cruised for an hour or so back to the dock to end our trip.
When we got back on land an reunited with our luggage, it was soaking wet. Several other bags were, too. I suspect they tossed them all off the side of the little boat to someone standing in the water, who then passed them up to shore. Only 1 shirt of mine is wet but all of UG's underwear, and several of his shirts got wet.
Another driver was waiting to drive us the 4 hours to our next destination, Ninh Binh.
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