We then wandered back to Red Square, and up to the top floor of the GUM to the No 57, a Soviet style cafeteria. I got a vanilla eclair and was planning to pick up some pelmeni (something I tried in Baikonour) which was listed on the menu. But we got through the whole line without seeing the pelmeni, so all I got was the eclair. While sitting in the diner, we decided to go explore the metro to see some specific stations. UG's only experience up to now had been out to the market on Saturday, he missed the crowds during rush hour yesterday.
We went to Park Pobedy, the deepest station, with the 3rd highest escalators in Europe. It took so long to get up the escalator, that I decided to time it on the way down. 3 minutes. This is one of the rare stations where the trains going in different directions use different platforms. Where we got off was almost empty, which seems to be unusual for Moscow in general, but especially during rush hour. The other side, where we left that station, had more people, but still relatively quiet.
Then we went to the prettiest station, Komsomol'skaya. When we got off the #1 line, we thought perhaps we were at the wrong station, since it didn't look like the pictures. UG was convinced my ability to read Russian is not improving as quickly as I believe. I suggested going to where we'd get on for the #5, the circle line. As we got closer, the decor improved, but the crowds got bigger. We found the hall we were looking for, and were able to view the whole thing from the top of some stairs. We just stood and watched the crowds for a few minutes. UG took some video of the platform, which appeared to be busy. Then 2 trains arrive at once, from different directions, and a sea of people floods in. Then they all move up the stairs, and the number of people which had been there before now seems like just a few stragglers.
On the way back from the metro to the hotel, we stopped in at the Ritz Carlton to check out the roof top bar. The guide who escorted us to the Kremlin told us that there was a lounge with a great view of the Kremlin and Red Square. But he told us that you had to be a guest of the hotel, or have an invite to use it. This morning, the bellman at our hotel mentioned it and said anyone could go. So we decided to see who was right, and maybe take the opportunity to visit after dark. Sure enough, we were welcomed up to the 12th floor. We snapped a couple of pictures and then made a reservation to come back at 9pm.
At our hotel (the Marriott Aurora, if I haven't mentioned that), we went up to the lounge to charge our cell phones (using them ALL day as a navigational aid really drains the battery). They had a spread of food there, including some profiteroles (mini, round eclairs) with peanut butter flavoured filling and chocolate topping. Wow. I ate a dinner's worth.
We were also taking the opportunity to rest our feet. UG feels like he's broken a toe. I have a blister, and have worn out the inner thighs on my jeans.
Back to the Ritz for our reservation. They saved us the best table, the corner with views in 2 directions. Crap, how much do these people think we're spending? Do jeans and t-shirts indicate high rollers? We filled up on freebies at our "cheap" hotel! I had a "Red Square", a $20 cocktail consisting of vodka (go figure!), raspberry, lime juice, and vanilla syrup with a sprig of rosemary. It was no $30 bellini, but damn good! I also had a plate of sushi rolls; crab, avocado and strawberry. It would have been amazing, but the avocado was a little under ripe. UG had a Corona, (which for some reason was cheaper than a coke?) and some edamame beans.
After our expensive snack, we walked back to the "ghetto" to meet our ride to the train. Another Mercedes with the same guide. She came with us to ensure we got on the right platform, which was probably worth more than the fancy car. The station itself is under construction, so you can't go inside. You have to go down the back alley to get around the building. That would have taken us a while to figure out, and would have been very stressful.
I booked the classic overnight train from Moscow to St Petersburg. It's the #1 from St Petersburg, and #2 from Moscow, according to everything I read online. When I booked it, it said "002". But both the hotel in St Petersburg when I booked a pick up, and the Moscow guide didn't believe me that "Number 2" was the train we were on. I was starting to think I had missed something in the name of the trains, or that they were known by a different description in Russia. But sure enough, on the platform, "No 2".
We got our 2 person private compartment, which UG was rather nervous about. He hasn't been on any overnight trains in over 30 years, if ever. But the compartment door locks, and we had blankets, pillows, and even our own hand towels. For me, I had heard good things, but my last overnight train ride was in China. I was optimistic when booking this trip because Russians don't stand on their toilets, so the bathrooms are liable to be much cleaner. I have not been disappointed.
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